For several years, Marseille has proven to be a real land of urban art. If you like art in all its forms, I suggest you visit two emblematic places in Marseille: Cours Julien and Le Panier.
Cours Julien is the largest district in France dedicated to street art. The streets between the cours and place Jean Jaurès are covered in graffiti that are definitely worth a visit! Cours Julien is a large, friendly square with a fountain surrounded by bars and restaurants of all nationalities. The tagged streets are alive and full of local designers, artists, thrift stores, junk shops and booksellers.
If you want to drink a tea, I advise you to go to Si Par Azar, rue Pastoret. Behind a colorful storefront, in a bohemian and oriental atmosphere, the owner of the place, Azar, puts you at ease immediately and welcomes you with a smile. The tea menu is very varied, there are also cold drinks, like the "Saklama" which I love, a lemonade softened by almond milk with light touches of anise and cinnamon. Of course you can sit on a chair, but the best thing is to sit on the cushions on the floor in the back room, for a total trip. There are even homemade oriental pastries, at just €2 each.
In front of the tea room, is the store "l'Entrepôt", an ideal place for 100% Marseille shopping to decorate your home. In the same street a little further, I like to go to the garden center "La Cabash". Linda welcomes you with a smile in her green universe. There are dozens of different plants, dried flowers and decorative objects. Linda will even make you personalized if you ask.
If you want to eat somewhere at Cours Julien, I recommend "La Cantinetta", an institution in Marseille with a very pleasant shaded patio (first photo below) and an Italian menu. If you want real Neapolitan pizzas (second photo below), I advise you to go to "Papa Fredo". Do not hesitate to look at my post in the "Italian" tab of restaurants in Marseille to find out more.
In the designer store style, I advise you to go to "Allika". This shop is a gold mine when you are looking for a gift to offer, you will find unique pieces for fashion and accessories such as chokers, bags / clutches, gemstone jewelry, brooches, cushions for yoga, warm lights, zero-waste accessories, woven baskets... There's even a colorful children's area that offers toddler accessories and decorations for the bedrooms.
If you want to cool off, one of the best ice cream parlors in Marseille, "the pink elephant with white dots" offers artisanal ice cream. If you like originality, the house dares to use original flavors and combinations such as ginger, Hibiscus flower, honey and orange blossom or even pineapple and basil.
Cours Julien is also a multicultural place. With an eclectic, popular and modern program "Espace Julien" attracts 250 shows a year approx. The concert hall (below in photo) is called a chameleon because it has the ability to change color and shape depending on the evolution its environment, demand and popular musical trends.
"Le Carré Rond" is a hidden theater in Three Kings Street. twenty actors and actresses from Marseille reinterpret pieces from the classical repertoire and present their own creations.
Sometimes in the year, a designer market comes to settle on the Place du Cours Julien, you often make some pretty finds there. Do not hesitate to check the city's agenda to know the dates.
I am now taking you to the Panier district. It is the oldest in town. I propose to go there by the "Montée du Saint Esprit" or the "Montée des Accoules". When you walk inside, you have more the impression of being in a small village in Provence than in the center of Marseille. The alleys are flowery, narrow, paved and the facades are colored with tags, each one more beautiful than the other.
Many craft designer shops litter the streets, I bought some beautiful placemats from Madagascar at the store "The Spice Basket". In the shop "The shuttles of Accoules", you will find the famous shuttles, traditional Marseille biscuits with orange blossom. On the walls of the neighborhood do not miss the tags of local artists who share their passion for urban art.
The tags in the rue des Mauvestis are my favorites, a green lion on a private shutter and a purple octopus with a trident on a wall.
At the end of the rue des Mauvestis à gauche, take the rue du Petit Puit, until the shop "3 Fenêtres", the one I prefer in the Panier. Jewerly, posters, déco, clothes, environmentally friendly bags... The shop proposes multiples creations around Marseille. Do not hesistate to go downstairs to discover a small room with decoration stuffs, woth for example some terracotta vase, colors plates and mediterranean posters.
You can have lunch or a drink on Place de la Lenche, Place Pistole or Place des Treize-Cantons. If you want typical Marseille food, you have to go "Chez Etienne" rue Lorette, in the mythical pizzeria du Panier founded in 1943 by Mr. Cassaro where you can eat the famous Marseille pizza tomato anchovies in the purest Neapolitan tradition, but also Provençal squid or lamb skewers garnished with rosemary.
At the heart of the Panier, a visit to the petanque museum is mandatory: the store "La Maison Bleue" retraces the history of pétanque. There is even a very nice little indoor bowling alley to test Marseille sport. I myself have a petanque triplet from this store, just to be able to assert myself as a true Marseilles...
For heritage lovers, I advise you to visit La Vieille Charité. Formerly built in the 17th century to shelter the poor and beggars, this monument is one of the most beautiful in Marseille. It now has a museum, a cultural and research center. The spaces on the ground floor present temporary exhibitions. The first floor houses the museum of Mediterranean archeology and the second the museum of African, Oceanian and Amerindian arts.
To end the day, you can have a drink on the roof terrace of the MUCEM and take the footbridges to return to the old port of Marseille. The walk is magnificent, with views of the Pharo, La Major cathedral and the old port. You can look at my other "1 Day in Marseille" posts for more specific visits to these key places in the city.
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